Reflections on a Dream Trip
Words by Hank Gaskell
Images Scott Soens
Going deep into South Sumatra is a mission to say the least! For most of us coming from the west there is over 40 hrs of flight time followed by a sketchy 7hr “bemo” ride. Our driver weaves dangerously through streets and back alley shortcuts crowded with animals, fruit stands, children rolling tires with sticks, and numerous dump trucks overflowing with betelnut used for it’s palm oil. It’s hard at times to justify all that expense, burning of fossil fuels, bad airplane food and the discomfort sitting for hours on end, just so we can go surfing. To me, this trip was well worth it!
Dazed after all that travel, we were beyond stoked to see our camp Villa Desa it was right on the water, and peak out front, spitting in both directions! We threw everything into our rooms and waxed up our boards, racing to be the first to see the inside of one of those crystal cylinders that had our hearts racing. We shared a few soon before dark, then came in ravenous.
THE VIEW | Villa Desa
From our first meal to the last we were fed well. We dined on local fish, chicken, tempeh and rice dishes. Fresh coconuts, smoothies and durian were a daily pleasure. If you don't know about durian, it is a volleyball sized spikey, greenish yellow fruit with flesh that assaults the common nostril. A more adventurous sense of smell learns to appreciate the sweet, rotten aroma and allows taste buds to enjoy the creamy, deliciousness that creates that distinct smell. Some places have signs of a circle around a durian with a slash through it, signifying that you can't bring the fruit there.
DURIAN EFFECT | Hank Gaskell
This area is rich with surf! 20 or so great waves lined the coast for miles in each direction. This right pictured below was the crown jewel; I loved it more than the durian! In the morning it is a rifling stand up tube, and mid day it became a perfect air wave. One day we surfed 4-5 foot pits all morning, then as the wind came on we bailed to get lunch. When we returned a few hours later, the swell had risen to solid 6-8 foot and the wind had clocked around just enough to open up the barrels! Otto, Dean and I surfed until our arms gave out, getting a stand up pit on almost every wave. Voices hoarse from hooting for each other, arms aching, the inevitable collection of reef cuts, sunburnt to a crisp; I haven't been that surfed out in I don't know how long. Damn it felt good!
SUMATRA | Settings
Our crew was epic! Scott was always in position to get the shot, laughing and encouraging us all the while. Otto was a master coordinator and pulled into some sick pits and layed down all kinds of stylish hacks. Huge props to Otto for having the vision and making the trip happen. Gopal and Quinten held it down as the groms of the trip; always frothing! They spent an unthinkable amount of time in the ocean. Quinten’s dad Mike nailed it with the filming, and Dean was a great guide. The local boys took care of us and were sharks at the pool table!
Before I sound optimistic to the point of making you want to throw up, I will point out one major issue we encountered; pollution. With no viable system in place to deal with household garbage, litter lined the streets, while smoke and the smell of burning plastic was everywhere. We would pick up the occasional piece of rubbish to remove it from the beach, but being outsiders, we felt helpless. One upside I guess is that we came to further understand just how big a problem this is in our world. I think it left us all wanting to improve ourselves; to consume less, recycle, use refillable water canteens, reef friendly sunscreens, etc. Alone, these things seem trivial, but if we as a society continue to implement responsible practices, then maybe we can shift the needle in a positive direction.
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